ASK

They were round with a central iron boss to protect the hand. Diameter was as much as 96 cm (Gokstad), but illustrations could be interpreted to show bucklers as small as 40 cm (Ledburg).

Construction was of oak or linden planks (see below). Reconstructions without edge reinforcement or leather facing are fragile and unsatisfactory, although these have not been found. It is likely that these shields were originally convex.

Our Copies:

Diagram

Compromises:

Diameter:	Maximum 80 cm, more typically 60 cm. There is no minimum. A large shield is better protection against missiles in a line fight, but hampers the user. A small shield (50 cm or less) is most suited to training and is lighter.
Materials:	Usually plywood. 9 mm thick Finnish birch plywood with as many layers as possible is the best. Pressed iron bosses are available via ASK. The thickest (3 mm) are most suited to show fights. Our supply of blacked nails and rivets is uncertain. Avoid galvanised metal if possible. For safety, the edge of the shield must be protected with leather or rawhide. Dog chews are cheap and easy to find. A leather faced shield is heavy. Heavy linen canvas is a good substitute. ASK colours are strictly linseed oil based paint with: red iron oxide, black iron oxide and any non-toxic white metal oxide. Anything waterproof that looks right is acceptable.
Construction:	Shields get damaged and destroyed, so modern construction methods that are safe and cannot be seen are acceptable.

Construction:

1 - Cut the shield plate: Mark the centre, rim and central hole. Use a jigsaw with a fairly fine blade.
The central hole may be a circle (~ 13 cm is about right), or 2 'D's leaving a strip as part of the grip (see below).

2 - Score lines: As if they are the edges of planks. It looks better (see above).

3 - Convex shield (optional): This can be constructed by laminating 2 or more thinner plates (see below).

Central hole	Convex shield template
ASK Designs

4 - Painting: Sometime before fixing the boss. Note ASK design above (Detail). It is recommended that everybody has an ASK and a non-ASK shield.

5 - Protect rim: Soak rawhide overnight. Slightly warm water accelerates softening. Stretch strips along the rim covering the edge and part of both sides. Nail in place and allow to dry. It will tighten up. A little linseed oil will provide a certain amount of protection against water.

6 - Fix grip: A wooden or iron grip should be riveted or nailed on (see below). A wooden grip is a simple strip of suitable cross section, but an iron grip can be quite complex and may require some sort of wooden handle. Either type should stretch across most of the width of the shield.

7 - Fix boss: Riveting is recommended. Max can supply shield bosses in a variety of thicknesses.

Riveting and nailing:

A coach bolt or nail may be used as a rivet.
Only strong nails should be bent over and care must be taken to avoid sharp parts protruding.

8 - Carrying strap: A strap allows the shield to be carried over the back or slung in front of the body. Usual materials are leather, a woven band or softish rope. A short strap can be tied through the grip, but more complex arragements with buckles can be used. A loose strap is a nuisance.