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Viking armour finds are scarce, but lamellae are
known from Birka (Sweden), as well as half a dozen or so fragments
(which may have been neck rather than body protection). The Birka lamellae
are much the same as central Asian ones. This type of armour was common
in eastern Europe, Russia and Byzantium, and there are Carolingian depictions.
Lamellar is an arrangement of small metal plates
thonged, laced or occasionally wired together into horizontal belts. These
were thonged together in turn. Generally, each lower band hung outside
the one above.
Unlike Scale, backing material was not
needed, but at least some of the thonging was exposed.
Brigandine (metal plates riveted or sewn between layers of fabric
or thin leather) developed after the Viking period.

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Lamellae based on Birka and Visby
plates (both in Sweden) are available via ASK ().
Lamellae (right) are based on armour #25,
grave #2 from the battle of Visby (Gotland 1361), this was after
the Viking period, but the armour was probably obsolete and had
certainly been crudely modified by then. The double width plates
that were likely belt end pieces in the original configuration are
not currently available.
It has proved difficult to obtain details
of the lamellar armour from Birka (left). Because of this, copies
of a 'standard' plate are modified to make them compatible with
the Visby plates. Other plates from Birka include shorter versions,
very much shorter versions assumed to be neck protection, and scales
that resemble the shoulder extensions from Visby armour #24. More
accurate versions will be produced in due course.
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Type:
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Size (mm):
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Description: |
| 1 |
70 x 22
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Standard Visby piece. There were left and right
forms of the originals with 7 (rather than 8) holes.
Horizontal spacing is 14 mm ± 1½ mm, vertical spacing
is 54 mm. |
| 1 A |
70 x 22
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Blanks as <1> but without holes.
These can be modified and holes bored where required. Used, for example,
as end pieces on the shoulder straps. |
| 1 B 65 |
65 x 22
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Shorter version of <1>, used for
shaped strips around the hips or shoulders. These were not found as
part of Visby #25, but similar shaped pieces are known from other
finds. |
| 1 B 60 |
60 x 22
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Shorter version of <1>. |
| 1 B 55 |
55 x 22
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Shorter version of <1>. |
| 1 B 50 |
50 x 22
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Shorter version of <1>. |
| 2 |
70 x 28
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Centre piece from Visby, used at the centre of
some horizontal strips. |
| 3 |
45 x 22
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Curved along both long edges, used on the narrowest
ends of shaped strips or around the neck. Not from Visby #25, but
compatible with the other pieces. |
| 8 |
97 x 22
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Standard Birka piece. The original had one of
the pair of holes at the end horizontal rather than vertical. This
would have allowed the belts to slide over one another slightly easier.
Horizontal spacing is 14 mm ± 1½ mm, vertical spacing
is 81 mm. |
| 8 A |
97 x 22
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Birka piece with an additional central 13 th hole.
Loose thonging from this hole to the uppermost holes of layer below
allows greater flexibility. |
| 8 B 92 |
92 x 22
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Shorter version of <8>, used to shape
strips around the hips or shoulders. Although the exact lengths are
approximate, these are based upon similar pieces from Birka, some
of which had a 13 th hole. |
| 8 B 86 |
86 x 22
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Shorter version of <8>. |
| 8 B 81 |
81 x 22
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Shorter version of <8>. |
| 8 B 75 |
75 x 22
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Shorter version of <8>. |
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12 Hole plates should be thonged
much like the Visby 8 hole ones.
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Type:
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Material: |
Price (flat / ridged): |
| All 1, 1A, 1B &
3 |
1 mm (~ 24 gauge) mild steel. <1>
also in 1.25 mm (~ 20 gauge) mild steel.
Flat pieces have been drum polished. Ridged pieces may be available
with a black finish. |
0.21 / 0.28 Euros
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| 1 mm (~ 24 gauge) stainless steel. Other materials
such as brass and aluminium alloys can be produced. |
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| 2 |
These are all 1½ mm (~ 16 gauge), and
are priced as the bulk of the order.
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| 8, 8A, 8B |
1 mm (~ 24 gauge) mild steel. <8>
also in 1.25 mm (~ 20 gauge) mild steel. |
0.28 / 0.35 Euros
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| 1 mm (~ 24 gauge) stainless steel. Other materials
such as brass and aluminium alloys can be produced. |
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Prices do not include postage.
500 - 800 of the Visby plates are enough for a vest. Includes 8 - 10
x Type <2> (the original had only 4).
Still under investigation.
4 copies of armour piercing arrows shot from a 50 pound bow at 20 m
all ended between layers of 1 mm Russian lamellae.
There is a fine description of
making horn lamellar at
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1 - Dishing: Hammer a shallow groove
into the back of each piece (a 300 g, cross-peen hammer working
onto a groove in a hardwood block is ideal). This raises a ridge
on the front (lighter grey in the diagram at the top) which
makes it much less likely to bend.
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| 2 - Blacking (optional): Either
blueing with heat or chemicals, oil blacking or both. Alternatively
apply Tin or Gold. |
3 - Preparing leather: Oil
or wax all leather before assembly.
Between 50 and 80 m of thonging will be required. Use leather (flat
6 - 10 mm wide is best, 3 mm square works well but 2 mm round will
not last), silk or hemp cord. Cut thong ends diagonally (or whatever)
so that they may be pushed through holes. Leather can be dipped
into leather oil, cord can be soaked in warm or drawn through solid
wax. |
Leather is shown as dark grey with holes
marked.
Width depends upon the thickness of the leather; typically 100 - 110
mm.
Length is arbitrary; typically 15 - 20 lamellae.
Thonging omits the terminal pair of holes.
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4 - Making the shoulder belts: This is the most fiddly
part of assembling an entire vest. Because they support most of
the weight, there is considerable strain at the ends. For this
reason it is a good idea to reinforce it with a piece of leather
that lies underneath these belts. This is shown above.
Cut the leather and mark out then punch the holes.
Thong the central row of holes, but not the end pairs. Use of
pieces <1 A> at each end could be considered.
Thong ends should be passed back under the spirals inside the
armour (see the lowest thongs below right).
The leather folds around the long edges (but, see 5).
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5 - Extending the shoulders
(optional): There are several ways of extending the shoulders.
A half-moon extension using 2 each of pieces <1 B 65>,
<1 B 60>, <1 B 55>, <1 B 50>
and <3> is shown below.
Additional unreinforced belts could be attached more loosely.
In either case, the reinforcing leather is the same. It folds around
to the outside of the shoulder belt, but lies underneath the extension.
The leather edging shown on the outside of the shoulder extension
is a separate strip. |
6 - Fixing the shoulders onto
the neck: This uses the 2 highest thongs from horizontal belts
at the front and back of the neck (see below). This is also very
fiddly.
Subsequent belts need not be reinforced, but it is a good idea to
protect the outside edges by folding strips of leather around them.
These should be prepared first (see 7). |
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7 - Leather edging (optional):
Prepare these before assembly.
These are just strips with pairs of holes.
Those running parallel to the belts are 20 - 25 mm wide, with pairs
of holes every 14 mm.
Those running across the ends of the belts should be ~ 35 mm wide,
with a more complicated pattern of double pairs of holes that is
easy enough to work out (see below).
Use separate strips and overlap the corners.
One can also edge each band before assembly, which makes quieter
but stiffer armour.
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8 - Assembling horizontal strips: Link
a row of pieces together using the pairs of holes on the long edges
(see above). Most thonging is inside the armour. Starting in the
centre of each strip avoids pulling as much thonging through. This
thong should be fairly taut, but not so much that the strip curls.
Leather will stretch most, silk least.
There are more complicated thonging patterns than that shown at
the top.
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| 9 - Linking the strips together:
Use the pairs of holes at the ends to thong adjacent strips together.
This should be fairly slack to allow them to move over one another
in the manner of segmented armour. Lower strips are outside (see below). |
| 10 - Buckles or toggles (optional):
These are held on by passing the thonging through leather strips on
the outside of the lamellae (see above). |
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11 - Other possibilities (optional): Shaped
strips can be added on the bottom edge, shoulders or neck.
A complete unshaped strip should never extend below the hip as it
restricts leg movement.
One can also make thigh and arm protection, either integral or as
separate pieces of armour.
Some possibilities are shown below.
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This armour was 3 years old at the time.
It weights 5-6 kg.
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| Each shoulder belt: 17 of pieces
<1>. |
| Each shoulder half-moon extension:
2 each of pieces <1 B 65>, <1 B 60>,
<1 B 55>, <1 B 50> and <3>,
and 5 of <1>. |
Front chest piece: 3 horizontal
belts, each of 1 centre piece <2> with 11
of <1> on each side.
Of these, the outer 6 pieces connect to the shoulder belts.
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Back piece: 3 horizontal belts,
each of 23 of pieces <1>.
Of these, the outer 6 pieces connect to the shoulder belts.
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The main body: Closes under
the left arm with 5 buckles (the straps pull forwards).
5 horizontal belts, each of 1 centre piece <2>
with 16 of <1> to the left (of which 11 overlap
the chest and 5 extend under the left arm), and 50 of
<1> to the right (of which 11 overlap the
chest, and 11 extend under the right arm, 23 overlap the
back and 5 extend under the left arm). |
| Half-moon groin piece: 2 each
of pieces <1 B 65>, <1 B 60>,
<1 B 55>, <1 B 50> and <3>,
4 of <1> and 1 centre piece <2>. |
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Type:
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Number used:
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| 1 |
513
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| 1 B |
-
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| 1 B 65 |
6
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| 1 B 60 |
6
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| 1 B 55 |
6
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| 1 B 50 |
6
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| 2 |
9
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| 3 |
6
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| Total: |
552
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| 12 - Oiling:
It is essential to oil the armour
if leather has been used. It will probably stretch in use, and may
require repair from time to time. |
| Birka armour: Use
much the same technique, but with slightly fewer horizontal belts
as the individual lamellae are longer. |
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